Mon Plaisir, Monmouth Street, London

Tina Nielsen launches a campaign for longer lunches

Bring back the long lunch. It is all very well to have express three-course lunches at bargain prices, but with the dishes arriving in such rapid succession you may as well have them all at once. At Mon Plaisir in London's Convent Garden, the waiting time between courses is reassuringly long and each dish arrives obviously cooked fresh to order, allowing customers time to chat while enjoying superb food just the way it should be.

Classic French dishes are the order of the day at the oldest French restaurant in London. Among the starters sit stalwarts of the Gallic menu—Foie Gras, garlic snails and onion soup. But there is also space for less traditional dishes such as the delicious mini ravioli in a creamy shellfish and saffron sauce.

The list of mains is long and varied and includes a larger than usual selection of fish offerings and one of the best steaks in town. Certainly the best I have had for some time. Juicy and tender, the entrecote comes accompanied by a tangy bearnaise sauce and double-cooked frites. The only grumble was that the apple and rhubarb crumble arrived a bit on the cold side, but this did not overshadow an overall delicious eating experience.

Mon Plaisir has been a family affair for the past fifty years. Current owner, Alain Lhermite took over from the founding Viala brothers in 1972 and continues to run it today alongside his daughter Valerie and son Philipe. Made up of four separate dining rooms—each with its own character, and all featuring a wonderfully eclectic selection of décor—and the famous pewter bar, originally from a Lyonnais brothel, the restaurant is more upmarket than your standard Parisian bistro.