Boath House Hotel, Nairn, Scotland

Three-course lunch, without wine £28.50

As a lunchtime visitor to Boath House, which bills itself as a small country house hotel, I didn't get to look at the rooms. But they would have to be pretty spectacular to be more than a sideshow here. Centre stage must surely go to this fabulous restaurant.

Long-established as one of only a handful of restaurants in Scotland with four AA rosettes, it's taken the Michelin men a bit longer to catch on. But they have finally recognised the quality and awarded it a much-coveted star.

There's some justice in the Michelin inspectors taking their time, because head chef Charles Lockley is a big fan of the slow food movement and appreciates things prepared slowly, over time. The approach is evident in everything that's served, with every dish bursting with what can only be described as intense, yet relaxed essential flavours. Lockley's real skill is in combining ingredients and matching these flavours so that each delicate flavour adds up to a powerful whole. Most of the herbs and vegetables are grown in the grounds, while other produce is all locally sourced, including the meat, fish and cheese.

A sign of what was to come arrived as we waited in the lounge before lunch and were presented with what looked like olive profiteroles. Melt-in-the-mouth choux pastry bites offered a gorgeously oily, olivey flavour, that was both subtle and pungent. It was the perfect set-up for the most exquisite food, all of which was clever, but never too clever.

Although we were destined for three courses, an inability to decide between a selection of fine local cheeses and a chocolate pudding resulted in both being served at no extra cost. Should they be less forthcoming for you, I'd suggest either paying a surcharge and enjoying both or ignoring the cheese in favour of the astonishing chocolate and cocoa nib cake with ice cream, a pudding that seemed able to summon up everything that's wonderful about chocolate. 
Scotland rarely gets due recognition for its food. But I would happily drive all the way from London for lunch here any day.

Richard Cree