Dinner for two, with wine, £90
Chapter One's website says the restaurant is for people who appreciate quality, style and value for money—and it's not wrong. This Michelin-starred offering has hit upon a winning formula, and both locals and out-of-towners agree. But booking is a must.
Head chef Andrew McLeish honed his skills with renowned chef Nico Ladenis at Chez Nico in London's Park Lane, followed by a spell at the Ritz. Before being headhunted for Chapter One, he was a head chef at the five-star Landmark Hotel in the capital. McLeish's modern European fare based on classical techniques is perfectly balanced and elegantly executed.
He cares about provenance and uses as much local produce as possible. My starter of carpaccio of venison is from Chart Farm in Sevenoaks and even our sparkling water comes from the village of Kingsdown on the Kent coast. The venison is rich in flavour while my partner's starter of foie gras is melt-in-the-mouth delicious. Our only gripe is that when we choose main courses the one steak on the menu is a special for which there is a £10 supplement. But my partner loves his choice of quail with smoked bacon, braised red cabbage and raisin jus. My main of pan-roasted cod, wilted spinach and black truffle potato purée is heavenly. This is all washed down with a perfectly quaffable red, reasonably priced at £16.
Choosing between the dessert menu and the vast cheese platter here is difficult. My partner opts for hot chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream. In order to avoid food envy, I follow suit.
Sarah Hanson