Michael Nadra, London W4

Lunch for two, without wine, £70

Previously known as Fish Hook, this Chiswick restaurant had a full makeover earlier in the year when it changed name and menu. By putting his name above the door, chef patron Michael Nadra is looking to change status from popular neighbourhood eatery to destination restaurant. And he has the experience to back up the ambitions, boasting stints in the kitchens of Pétrus, Chez Bruce and La Trompette.

Seafood still features prominently on the imaginative modern menu, the standout starter being an excellent blend of seared yellowfin tuna, soft-shell crab tempura and king prawn dumpling served with an oriental salad. For mains, the fish again was superb. Perfectly grilled sea bass and delicious saffron crab ravioli served in a tasty bisque with ribbons of courgette was packed with flavour and different textures. Roast cod with spicy chorizo works every time and it was no exception here with sautéed squid added.

While the plethora of ingredients felt over the top in starters and mains, it proved refreshing in side dishes. Sugar snap peas, green beans, confit garlic and baby tomatoes was daring and English asparagus and samphire a tasty seasonal accompaniment. A fruit salad of blood orange, kiwi, pineapple, nashi pear, Thai green mango, lychee and cointreau sorbet was refreshingly different after two big courses, and chocolate fondant with salted caramel and vanilla ice cream fittingly indulgent.

This attractive restaurant still feels more like a local favourite, but with ambitious food and a loyal following the future looks bright for Nadra.

Tina Nielsen