Where to get... the best black tie

Adrian Holliday discovers this season’s best bib and tux

Forget casual, posh is trendy. So when the invitations for those flash seasonal bashes come flooding, don’t try and squeeze into that old dinner suit you bought after college. The latest black tie look is easier to acquire than you think.

If you’re happy to spend serious money, start with Zegna. Ermenegildo Zegna has built up a strong clientele with its luxurious fabrics. What style of tux does Zegna spokesperson, Adam Fine, suggest? “Stick to velvet maroon, cobalt blue or black; the cobalt blue option is particularly smart with black trousers.” And for a tie? Bow or skinny? “That depends on how formal you want to get, but keep the tie to a monochrome palette.” In other words, don’t mix colours unless you’re partial to 1980s excess. Prices for a hand-made Zegna velvet tuxedo aren’t cheap—they start at £1,150.

Pricier still is a bespoke number from top tailor Tony Lutwyche. Prices here start from a heady £1,500, but you get what you pay for—just ask Michael Sheen and Gordon Ramsay, who are both Lutwyche clients.

Paul Smith offers DJs for men and women. For men, there’s a one-button, 100 per cent wool suit, with a satin lapel and black lining. Be warned it’s slim-fit only—very much a case of nip and tux. For women there’s Paul Smith’s stunning black, long-line jacquard, men’s-style, one-button smoking jacket with velvet lapel (£530). Team it with a pair of wide-leg, slouchy trousers to really wow.

Another option, for men only, is Nigel Hall, especially if you favour a looser, more casual look. Nigel Hall’s new wool and cashmere two-button suit (£275 for the jacket, £110 for trousers) has a very relaxed cut to it—more like a lounge suit really—yet it’s still classical and cool.
A sortie to Marks & Spencer or Next will keep costs down. Both offer machine-washable dinner jackets for around £120. M&S also offers a white-jacket option for men and women.

Sainsbury’s has also entered the fray, with DJs for both sexes in its Tu range; and this time we’re talking bargain-basement prices. How does £68 for jacket, two shirts and a pair of trousers sound? Not Savile Row quality, for sure, but you can’t ignore the value. Women can get kitted out at Sainsbury’s with jacket and trousers—a trendy androgynous look—for just £55.

Just a little guidance on shoes; keep them simple. Glossy, polished Oxfords for men work best. There’s plenty of choice, but invest in quality. Try somewhere such as Loake, Grenson or, for something more flamboyant, Jeffery West.