Vineyard visits while on vacation are growing. Claire Coleman investigates the best holiday destinations for wine lovers
AUSTRALIA
Household names such as Jacob’s Creek and Peter Lehmann are based in South Australia’s Barossa Valley, but the lesser-known vineyards of the Margaret River, which are close to the beautiful beaches of Western Australia, have much to offer.
Slurp? Voyager Estate and Cullen are two of the better-known producers in the area, while the Evans and Tate winery, whose Chardonnay has garnered a host of awards, and the slick operation at the Leeuwin Estate (it has its own airstrip, art gallery and gourmet restaurant) both merit a look.
When? If you’re a surf fan, our winter is an ideal time to make the most of the beaches.
Sleep? In the Margaret River area, the elegant and tranquil Cape Lodge (left), a 22-suite hotel sits within spitting distance of a number of the area’s vineyards. It has its own private lake plus its own vineyard.
How much? Turquoise Holidays (01494 678 400; www.turquoiseholidays.co.uk) can create a bespoke trip according to your needs. As a guide, a two-week holiday comprising five nights in the Margaret River area and three nights each in the Barossa and Clare valleys costs from £2,549 per person including all flights, car hire and B&B accommodation.
CHILE
Chile is still developing as a wine-producing country and so constantly offers new wineries to explore. The distances between the vineyards are still fairly large—expect to spend up to three hours in a minibus if you don’t book internal flights.
Slurp? Check out Viña Cousiño Macul, one of Chile’s oldest wine estates dating back to 1862, and Viña Veramonte, a relatively young vineyard established by a Chilean entrepreneur who learned about wine making in Napa. When buying, remember some wines are cheaper in the UK, but seek out Chardonnay from the Aquitania vineyards and the excellent wines from San Antonio Casa Marin and Viña Leyda.
Sleep? Casa Real, a 16-room hotel in the grounds of Viña Santa Rita, Maipo Valley, complete with its own highly regarded restaurant, Doña Paula. Small but palatial, this is a manor house with those little extras—such as a billiard table.
When? November—late enough to enjoy good spring weather but early enough to avoid Christmas airfares.
How much? Winetrails (01306 712111; www.winetrails.co.uk) offers a range of tours to Chile. A 14-day trip starts at around £3,500 plus flights from the UK. Expect to pay around £700 per person for London-Santiago return flights in economy in November.
CROATIA
Eastern Europe might not immediately spring to mind as an oenophile destination, but the Peljesac peninsula has been renowned for its wines since ancient times.
Slurp? There are tiny vineyards all over the peninsula. Visit Potomje and the Matusko family cellars, famed for making Dingac, an excellent red, and the sweet wine, Prosek. For more local flavour, look to Grgic Vina, which focuses on local grapes such as the white Posip and the red Plavac Mali (a close relative of the Zinfandel grape). Buy what you can: much of the wine made here stays here.
Sleep? Overlooking the Adriatic, the luxurious Grand Villa Argentina, complete with its own spa, makes a good base. It’s within walking distance of Dubrovnik and a short drive from the area’s vineyards.
When? September—the weather’s still warm, the high summer crowds have gone, and the vines are in full bloom.
How much? Hidden Croatia (0871 208 0075; www.hiddencroatia.com) offers a three-night B&B package at the Grand Villa Argentina from £499 per person including flights and transfers. Local vineyard trips are organised on request.
FRANCE—CHAMPAGNE
The king of all wines and, fortunately for us Brits, produced on the doorstep. Eurostar is quicker, but there are obvious attractions to driving down in a car with a very big boot.
Slurp? Obviously, the better known producers are the big draw, but once you’ve tired of the likes of Bollinger, Pol Roger and Louis Roederer, make the effort to visit lesser known houses such as Henri Mandois and Vilmart, a traditional grower. Established since the 1890s and still family-run, Vilmart prides itself on using no herbicides or chemicals.
Sleep? Les Crayeres, a magnificent chateau a short drive from the centre of Reims in the heart of Champagne country and within walking distance of several of the larger Champagne houses, including Veuve, Pommery, Ruinart and Piper. Oh, and it’s got a highly respected restaurant—could you ask for anything more?
When? Avoid August as the French are all on holiday and December as the Brits are stocking up for Christmas. Early spring is a good bet.
How much? Arblaster and Clarke (01730 893344; www.winetours.co.uk) offer Champagne weekends from as little as £335, including travel, B&B, lunch at a Champagne house and two comparative tastings.
FRANCE—LOIRE
The wines of this area have an outstanding international reputation; Sancerre, Vouvray and Chinon all originate here. Add in picturesque chateaux and its proximity to the UK and you’re onto a winner.
Slurp? Take your pick from a host of award-winning vineyards including Domaine Chavet and Fournier Pere et Fils. But, if time is short, make for one of the cellars that showcase a group of wines. At La Cave des Vignerons de Saumur, as well as tasting, you can tour 10kms of underground tunnels, while Caves des Producteurs de Vouvray represents 35 different Vouvray producers, including some that offer sparkling wines.
Sleep? Domaine des Bidaudieres in the wine town of Vouvray is a small 15th century manor house with just six rooms and two separate additional dwellings. Formerly a wine-producing property, it’s now an ideal base for touring the area and is close to Les Hautes Roches, a gourmet restaurant and hotel set in an old troglodyte cave.
When? Most of the wine festivals in the area take place in April so this can be a good time to pack in as much tasting as possible.
How much? Doubles at Domaine des Bidaudieres (+33 2 47 52 66 85; www.bandb-loire-valley.com) start at €115 (£79.50) for B&B.
ITALY—TUSCANY
While the region is best known for its big ticket Chiantis, Tuscany is also home to Vin Santo and some good, but often expensive, whites. And don’t forget the wonderful gastronomy: there’s not much that can beat a full-bodied local wine with a classic Bistecca alla Fiorentina.
Slurp? Visit Castello Banfi where they make single-vineyard Brunello di Montalcino, often revered as Italy’s best (and certainly its most expensive) wine. If that’s your thing, Tenuta San Guido, home of Sassicaia, should be on your list, alongside Tignanello from the Antinori family, winemakers since 1385.
Sleep? Designed by Michelangelo and one-time residence of the Machiavelli family, Villa Mangiacane lies slap bang in the heart of Chiantishire and has been producing its own wine for more than 400 years.
When? September to coincide with Chianti’s largest wine fair, held in Greve, the chief town of the Gallo Nero region.
How much? Rooms at the Villa Mangiacane (www.steinhotels.com) start at around €240 (£166) per night, excluding service and VAT. The hotel is happy to arrange wine tours of the local area or, for those with a bit more cash to splash and who want to see more, a helicopter tour is also available.
NEW ZEALAND
The reliability and affordability of New World wines have begun to raise the reputation of New Zealand, even among snootier wine buffs. Hawkes Bay, which includes some of the best-known New Zealand vineyards, is the country’s longest established winegrowing region boasting over 2,200 hours of sunshine each year.
Slurp? The Sacred Hill winery has had great acclaim for its Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. For two contrasting producers, check out the state-of-the-art Sileni Estates and the country’s oldest winemaker, Mission Estates, particularly feted for its Chardonnay.
Sleep? McHardy House, a small, privately run residence in Napier, a town renowned for its Art Deco buildings. It’s close to beaches, the town centre and the area’s many vineyards, and offers guests fine dining, not to mention use of a billiards room, pool and landscaped gardens.
When? Go during the Harvest Hawkes Bay festival in February and shuttle buses will help you explore 26 of the area’s wineries.
How much? Toast The Bay (www.toastthebay.co.nz) can create bespoke tours. Its regular four-hour Wine Enthusiasts Experience starts at just NZD40 (£14) a person.
SOUTH AFRICA
A winter holiday that virtually guarantees sunshine and combines the buzzy beach city of Cape Town with the tranquillity and gastronomic delights of the nearby wine region is what the Americans call a “no-brainer”.
Slurp? Stellenbosch and Franschhoek have wineries at every turn, all inviting you to come in and taste their wares. Check out the beautiful L’Ormarins for excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and cold-soaked Sauvignon Blanc, and the lesser-known Rust en Vrede, a privately owned estate that specialises in red wine and is acknowledged to be one of the area’s best.
Sleep? Lanzerac Manor, a boutique hotel set in the grounds of a 300-year old wine estate. When you’re not visiting the on-site cellar or sampling the local wines, relax on your own private patio overlooking the vineyards.
When? January; tasting wine under sunny skies is even better when you know the UK is languishing in the depths of a cold, grey winter.
How much? Black Tomato (www.blacktomato.co.uk) offers a six-night package comprising three days in Cape Town and three days in wine country from £1,499 per person including flights, all transfers and B&B accommodation in five-star hotels.
SPAIN
While the country is possibly best known for its Riojas, if you want a taste of something a little different, head south to Andalucia to check out the sherry triangle that lies between El Puerto de Santa Maria, Jerez de la Frontera and Sanlucar de Barrameda.
Slurp? Give the less than picturesque Gonzalez Byass Bodega (home to Tio Pepe) a miss and instead tour the extensive Lustau Bodega, which has won countless awards for its various sherries—the Very Rare Dry Oloroso is particularly highly regarded. In Sanlucar de Barrameda, head for the Barbadillo Bodega, some of whose wines are distributed in the UK as Harvey’s of Bristol.
Sleep? Hotel Casa Grande in Jerez, an intimate, light and airy boutique hotel right in the centre of town with staff who will be happy to advise on the best bodegas and restaurants.
When? Book in advance to ensure you can find a bed, but go during the annual feria (usually August or September) for fantastic weather, lots of sherry, flamenco and horse racing on the beach.
How much? Rooms at the Casa Grande start from €55 (£38) a night; full details of the Bodega tours available in the area can be found on www.sherry.org.
USA—CALIFORNIA
While Napa is probably the best known of the Californian wine producing areas, and consequently boasts more restaurants and hotels, Sonoma or Russian River are less touristy and better bets for those in search of really great wines.
Slurp? The Carneros area to the south, near where Sonoma and Napa almost meet, is great for Pinot Noir and for sparkling wines made by Mumm, Piper, Chandon etc. Also check out Ravenswood where a big sign spanning a large gateway declares “No Wimpy Wines” and lives up to its promise with great reds, especially Zinfandels. Tablas Creek is worth a look; it was founded by the Perrins of Chateau de Beaucastel, who brought Chateauneuf du Pape cuttings from the Rhone to Paso Robles.
Sleep? Fountaingrove Inn Hotel in Santa Rosa, a little to the north of the valleys, not only boasts a great restaurant but is also an exquisite piece of modern architecture. Ideally situated if you arrive by private plane into Santa Rosa airport, the nearest airport to the wine valleys.
When? Summers are dry and hot and very busy, especially at the weekends, so think about a late April or early May visit.
How much? California Wine Tours (www.californiawinetours.com) offers a range of personalised tours. A six-hour chauffeur-driven limo tour of the Sonoma Valley starts at around $360 (£205) for up to six people.