The height of adventure

Famous for its breathtaking scenery, Norway promises an unforgettable holiday. Include an excursion to see the Northern Lights, a visit to the Arctic Circle, a trip to the fjords or a tobogganing and winter-sports weekend in the mountains, and you have the holiday of a lifetime. Claire Coleman takes a tour of the country's main attractions—and explains how to get the most from them

The Fjords

What: These sea-filled glacial valleys are world famous and rightly so. They are spectacular. Whether it's the two UNESCO-listed fjords (Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord), or the Lysefjord on the west coast, there's no shortage of breathtaking scenery. At the inland end of Lysefjord is Lysebotn, known for the 27 hairpin bends that lead to it. There are two natural rock features here: the Pulpit Rock (or Preikestolen), a plateau 604 metres above the fjord, and the Kjerag Boulder, five cubic metres of boulder wedged in a crevice 1,000 metres above the fjord.

When to go: June, July, August. These are the warmest months of the year, and you can expect similar weather to Scotland

What to do: A lot of walking. There are various options. The path to Kjerag, for example, starts at Øygardstølen, a restaurant 640 metres above Lysebotn, and normally takes around two hours. The two UNESCO World Heritage fjords, Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord, are among the longest and deepest in the world and it's not hard to see why UNESCO cited the entire surrounding coutryside as worthy of preservation. It offers a staggering backdrop to a hiking or biking holiday. For extra comfort, get someone else to take your luggage. See www.norske-bygdeopplevelser.no.

Where to stay: Try the Sagafjord Hotel, ideally placed in the heart of the Sunnmøre Alps and adjacent to the "king of fjords", the Hjørundfjord. It's a mix of new and old buildings built around a square and is about 1.5 hours from Ålesund, with double rooms starting at about £90. www.sagafjordhotel.no

Midnight Sun

What: The flipside of having 24 hours of darkness in the winter is that for two months in the summer you get 24 hours of sunlight. Anyone on a whistle-stop tour during these months can pack a lot into their time away. The best place to head for is Lofoten—a cluster of islands that stretches over 100 miles along the north Norwegian coast.

When to go: End of May to mid-July to make sure you get the full land-of-the-midnight-sun experience.

What to do: All the things that you can't do at midnight anywhere else. A popular pursuit is midnight golf. The Lofoten Golf Links (www.lofoten-golf.no) is one of the world's most northerly golf courses. It boasts a latitude of 68 degrees (the Arctic Circle is at 66 degrees) and is on flat land, facing north overlooking the Norwegian Sea. Green fees are around £27.

Even if you're not a golfer, you'll find plenty to occupy you. Lofoten Aktiv offers a complete programme of tours, courses and equipment hire, whether you fancy sea kayaking around the archipelago, cycling, hiking, sailing or fishing. Find out more at www.lofoten-aktiv.no.

Where to stay: Svolvær, the islands' transport hub, is a good base. For an authentic experience, stay in a rorbu (a traditional fisherman's cabin on stilts) overlooking the sea at Svinøya Rorbuer. Prices start at around £90 a night for a standard two-person cabin. A minimum two-night stay is required in June, July and August. See www.svinoya.no.

Mountains

What: Norway's mountains are every winter sports lover's dream. You don't get the huge lift systems of the French resorts, but then you don't get the queues either. Hemsedal, 220km north west of Oslo, is a popular winter destination and is home to the highest ski slope in Scandinavia, 1,500 metres above sea level.

When to go: While Hemsedal is a year-round resort, the winter season opens in mid-November; snow is pretty much guaranteed all the way through to May.

What to do: With 49 slopes on your doorstep, not to mention 130km of cross-country tracks in both valley and forest terrain, skiers, and especially cross-country skiers, will have more than enough to occupy them. Boarders aren't forgotten either: there's a snowboard park that's considered one of the best in Europe. But that's just the start. Fancy ice climbing on a frozen waterfall? Maybe dog sledding or paragliding is more your thing. Or, for a more leisurely break, there's always tobogganing or a horse sleigh ride. Ice climbing starts at around £77 per person per day, horse sleigh rides from around £17. More details on all these activities are available at www.hemsedal.com.

Where to stay: The Skarsnuten Hotel is widely considered to be one of the best in the area. Perched in a little village, halfway up the slopes, it is Scandinavian modernity at its best. With huge glass windows, it offers impressive views across the valley and an excellent restaurant. Best of all, it has its own chairlift and ski tracks linking it directly to Hemsedal Ski Centre. Find out more at www.skarsnutenhotel.no.

The Northern Lights

What: Officially known as the Aurora Borealis, these curtains of colour range from greenish white to deep red. They are produced when charged particles from the sun collide with atoms and molecules in the earth's upper atmosphere. Because the lights appear in a doughnut shaped area around the earth's magnetic poles, the northern-most tip of Norway is a great place to spot them.

When to go: Between November and February when it's dark for almost 24 hours of every day. The lights are there during daylight hours, as well, but they're harder to see because of the sun's glare.

What to do: You could just stand outside your hotel and hope for the best, but you'd be better off heading for the less light-polluted areas. Either board a Hurtigruten ship, where the lack of artifical light gives a great view, or head for the Tromsø Villmarkssenter (wilderness centre), about half an hour outside Tromsø. The owners will pick you up and take you to the countryside where you can spend the evening in a lavvo (a traditional tent) and warm yourself by an open fire with a hot drink. More adventurous types can book a dog-sledding trip, or spend a night in a lavvo, complete with an outside hot tub. An evening at the Villmarkssenter costs £40 per person, while the dog sledding is around £110 per person. Find out more at www.villmarkssenter.no.

Where to stay: The Rica Ishavshotel is slap bang in the middle of Tromsø, with great views over the harbour and, appropriately enough, is shaped like a ship. Rooms start at around £150. Go to www.rica-hotels.com/ishavshotel.

Arctic Circle

What: Norwegian Lapland is a dramatic landscape of snow, ice caves, mountain peaks and glaciers, not to mention the indigenous Sami people. Further north there's Svalbard, a small group of islands sitting in the Arctic Ocean halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole, where polar bears outnumber people, and arctic foxes, seals and reindeer are also easily spotted.

When to go: Either in the spring, locally known as "light winter", between March and May, or during one of the periods of the full moon in the winter.

What to do: Anyone who watched Gordon Ramsay diving for king crabs on the F Word will appreciate some of what's available in this winter wonderland. There are a number of packages on offer that combine husky dog sledding, snowmobiling and accommodation. Or, if you choose to go during the polar night, that is when the sun never shines, you can explore ice caverns with head torches, or take moonlit rides in a dog sleigh.

Where to stay: This far north, why not go all the way and head for the Alta igloo hotel? At this ice hotel on the banks of the Alta River all interior and exterior walls are made of ice. You can keep warm with reindeer fur rugs and thick sleeping bags, but the real attractions are the ice sculptures that decorate the bar, 20 bedrooms (and one suite) and the sitting rooms. Made annually by famous sculptors, they ensure the hotel is different every year. www.alta-friluftspark.no.

The Norwegian Riviera

What: It's not the Mediterranean, but Norway can still hold its own when it comes to beaches. Head to Mandal, the southernmost tip of the country. Although temperatures don't reach the highs seen in southern Europe, those who prefer a cool summer will delight in Sjøsanden, nearly a kilometre of sandy, golden beach.

If you're not a beach fan, then maybe you'll appreciate the Mandal River instead, with its picturesque waterfalls, and a backdrop of the mountain areas of Åseral.

When to go: June, July, August for the best temperatures. If you're a seafood fan, make it August when the annual seafood festival (www.skalldyrfestivalen.no), with music, art, cookery demonstrations and prawn-peeling contests, takes place.

What to do: Keen fishermen are spoilt for choice. The coast between Mandal and Lindesnes is prime hunting ground for mackerel and cod, while the Mandal River is one of the top areas in the country for salmon fishing. For non-fishers, the river is the perfect playground to try rafting or canoeing for the first time. But if you're allergic to watersports, don't panic. There are fantastic opportunities for climbing and abseiling and, for a truly unique experience, try an elk safari, where if you're lucky, you'll spot one of these reindeer-esque creatures. Adventure Norway (www.adventurenorway.net) can organise rafting (around £27 per person), climbing (around £27 per person), canoeing (around £14 per person) and elk safaris (around £17 per person).

Where to stay: If you can, try booking into one of the area's lighthouses. There are three that let out basic rooms to tourists in the summer season. And, as you might expect, you'll get great views over the coastline, and very little noise from the neighbours. Get more information at www.regionmandal.com.