Ranching in Argentina

Explore the great outdoors with a ranch holiday in gaucho country – it's a rewarding rural escape

The gaucho – South America's cowboy – occupies a special place in Argentine hearts. These fabled horsemen are a common sight on the estancias, or ranches, which are dotted across the pampas, the vast plains stretching from the Atlantic to the Andes.

Many estancias are now stylish boltholes where you can kick back for a few days or more and release your inner-cowboy in relaxed surroundings. They range from the colonial mansions of 19th century cattle barons that have become luxury hotels to smaller, family-run ranches which are still working farms. Here you can saddle up and ride horses in spectacular landscapes under huge blue skies. Riding routes vary – flat, grassy expanses in the east, the rolling plateau of Patagonia further south and rugged mountain trails as you head west towards the Andes.

Don't worry if your equestrian skills are limited, gauchos will guide novices. And if you're an experienced rider, you may be invited to round up cattle or play polo, a national obsession along with tango, football and eating beef – lots of it.

Argentines boast they produce the world's finest beef and after a day on horseback you'll tuck into giant, juicy steaks at an asado, or barbecue. Scrumptious morcilla (blood sausage), chorizo, empanadas (meat-filled pastries) and home-grown vegetables – all washed down with robust malbecs from Mendoza's wine country – usually complete the menu.

Gaucho culture

If you prefer to stay out of the saddle, there's hiking, fishing, birdwatching or, in Patagonia, white-water rafting. Many estancias also have pools, tennis courts, bicycle routes and walking trails. Or you can ride around slowly in a sulky – a horse-drawn, two-wheeled cart.

Argentina is vast but attractive ranches are within easy reach of Buenos Aires. El Rocío, in San Miguel del Monte, lies 100km from the capital. Set in 400 acres, this intimate ranch offers elegant accommodation, horse riding, polo, fishing and hunting. Or if R&R is your priority, laze beside the lovely pool.

San Antonio de Areco, 120km from Buenos Aires, is the cradle of gaucho culture. At La Bamba de Areco, a short ride from town, rooms are luxurious, the food is hearty and the cowboy influence authentic. Riding trails, carriage trips, mountain biking and polo lessons are part of the package.

Head for the hills

Further afield is Estancia La Paz, set in the foothills of the Sierras de Córdoba. The mountainous terrain here contrasts sharply with the lush flatness of the pampas. There are 20 luxurious rooms, riding trails, a spa and pool. Guests can also hunt, fish, cycle and take 4x4 trips.

Your gateway to a ranch holiday involves staying in Buenos Aires after a long flight. This most European of South American capitals is best explored on foot and offers a wide choice of smart boutique hotels – check out the Mine in hip Palermo Soho. Must-dos include bargain-hunting in bohemian San Telmo, sipping strong coffee in atmospheric Belle Epoque cafés, a night out at a locals' tango club, a trip to the magnificent Teatro Colón opera house, and a stroll through the vibrant La Boca district.

BA is thrilling, but to make the most of your long-haul getaway, pack a Stetson, head for a ranch and find that inner-cowboy.

Robert Sly

FACT FILE
Getting there Fly to Buenos Aires with BA from Heathrow. Many hotels in Buenos Aires arrange transport to estancias in San Antonio de Areco. Fly from the city to Córdoba with Aerolíneas Argentinas.
Best time to go For Buenos Aires and Córdoba, September to mid-December or March to mid-April will be pleasantly warm. For Patagonia, go in the mild summer (December to February).
For more information visit
www.estanciaelrocio.com
www.labambadeareco.com
www.estancialapaz.com
www.minehotel.com