Chic chalets

You can still rent a dated ski-lodge with dodgy food served by sullen youngsters. But some of the world's best hotels are now slopeside, complete with Michelin-starred restaurants, palatial suites and private butlers. Claire Coleman goes celebrity skiing

Gstaad Berne, Switzerland

Why: The place where the jet set go to play, the picturesque mountain village of Gstaad has been a glamour destination since the 1960s and 1970s, with playboys and girls rubbing shoulders with racing drivers and royals.
The hotel: Gstaad Palace
The vibe: This fairytale palace overlooking the iconic resort has been a fixture since 1913. There's a distinctly rustic feel to the decor, but roughing it, this ain't. The hotel draws the type of clientele more commonly found in the pages of Tatler and Hello! Not only party people, but entire families, complete with nannies and grandmas, decamp here, just as they did nearly a century ago.
Suite talking: This huge edifice might not fit the boutique-hotel brief, but that does mean there are over 100 rooms and suites to choose from. Expect all the usual mod cons and, if you really want to splash out, opt for the three-bedroom penthouse, with sauna, steam bath and, of course, a private lift.
Wine and dine: With a choice of five restaurants and two bars, you're never going to be stuck for somewhere to snack, but for showy dining, head for Le Grill, Rotisserie. Not only will they ply you with classic dishes like caviar and Chateaubriand, chefs will also conjure up such dishes as Spaghettini Gildo's right at your table.
Après ski: Whether you want R&R or G&T, there's something to fit the bill. The humungous new spa boasts a seven-station hammam (steam bath), Pilates studio and state-of-the-art gym. But it's the basement club, GreenGo, with a dancefloor suspended over a pool, that makes this place. When, a few years ago, there were plans to modernise it, there was uproar from the regulars, so it retains a kitsch 1970s feel and has a playlist to match.
High points: Kids are particularly well looked after here. Not only do they have a playroom, outdoor playground and special programme of activities, but the little darlings are welcomed with their own mini dressing-gowns and slippers on arrival. Plus, to get them started on the socialising early, there are special dinner services and even, occasionally, a toddlers' disco in GreenGo.
A double for room for two on a half-board basis costs from €450 (£350) a night in low season.
www.palace.ch

Aspen Colorado, USA

Why: The former silver-mining town no longer churns out precious metals, but there's still plenty of bling around. With the likes of Donald Trump, Goldie Hawn and Michael Douglas as regulars, this "ski and be scene" winter wonderland is as much a fixture on the diamonds and furs circuit as the Hamptons. The fact that it also boasts the second largest ski area in the country adds to the appeal. Expect nature tours, paragliding and hot-air balloon rides.
The hotel: The Little Nell
The vibe: By US sizes, this 92-room hotel is on the small side, but its cosy, countrified vibe still manages to attract the crème de la crème. As Aspen's only ski-in, ski-out hotel, it draws skiing aficionados, but it's the two-to-one staff-to-guest ratio that appeals to the likes of Elle Macpherson and Mariah Carey. 
Suite talking: 14 of the 92 rooms are, in fact, suites, but even if you don't feel the need to sprawl out in the 2,000 sq ft Pfeifer Suite, you can expect shades of muted beige, gas-burning fireplaces, goose-down sofas and, if you're lucky, a private balcony.
Wine and dine: The bars here are renowned for their celeb-spotting potential—just make sure you're wearing a Prada ski suit or at least sporting Chanel goggles and you'll fit right in. According to those in the know, the main restaurant, Montagna, under the guidance of chef Ryan Hardy and sommelier Richard Betts, is among the best in the state.
Après ski: If the three bars and two restaurants don't do it for you, a heated outdoor pool, well-equipped gym and comprehensive massage menu are all on site. Should you wish to venture further afield, the concierge can advise.
High points: If you want an idea of the levels of service you can expect, just take a quick glimpse at the offering for your canine companion. As well as gourmet dog biscuits, personal brass ID tags, and a list of recommended pet-friendly hiking trails, they can also provide a puppy jet-lag kit "if the altitude isn't suiting your Airedales".
A double room in low season starts from $340 (£190) a night.
www.thelittlenell.com

St Moritz Grisons, Switzerland

Why: Alongside Zermatt, Davos and Gstaad, this snowy hideaway jostles for the accolade of Switzerland's swishest ski spot. And, with Dior, Chanel, Hermès, Cartier et al littering the town's main street, not to mention the annual polo matches played on the frozen lake, it's a definite contender. Oh, and then there are the Olympic ski runs and miles of cross-country trails, if that's your bag.
The hotel: The Carlton
The vibe: Originally Tsar Nicholas II's summer home, the Carlton first became a hotel in 1913. It recently underwent an extensive 18-month refurbishment and has emerged far funkier than in its former incarnation. As such, it now attracts an equally moneyed, but somewhat hipper crowd than in its-yawn-grande dame days.
Suite talking: It's all suites here—60 of them, all south-facing with views of the lake and mountains. Carlo Rampazzi's interior design offers a modern twist on the hotel's antique origins. Each room has its own striking signature colour, such as burnt orange or lime green, and everything—from the huge fleur-de-lys curtains, to the giant button-back leather headboards—coordinates perfectly.
Wine and dine: There's fine dining at Romanoff and a wine list to match. But for a more modern meal, check out Tschine: open all day, and with a far more laid-back feel than Romanoff, it offers Swiss cuisine with Asian influences—clearly one for the figure—watching beauties who prefer the lighter options of consommés and carpaccios to calamari and kartoffeln.
Après ski: A swanky spa—with indoor and outdoor pools overlooking the mountains—sprawls over three floors, but for more adrenaline-filled pursuits, get your concierge to arrange a heart-stoppingly swift descent down the Olympic bob run.
High points: The complimentary 24-hour butler service will sort you out with anything your heart desires. And, should you wish to get the inside track, you can sign up to twice-yearly masterclasses in becoming the perfect butler. Presumably the result of guests so impressed with the service that they wanted their own staff trained up to Carlton standards.
Junior suites start at around €600 (£460) a night, including breakfast, minibar, internet access, service charge and VAT.
www.carlton-stmoritz.ch

Courchevel 1850 Savoie, France

Why: It's St Tropez-sur-neige here, very chic, very slick and a favourite with the Beckhams, not to mention a handful of Russian oligarchs and Arabic royalty. More importantly, Courchevel is part of the Trois Vallées, one of the largest ski areas in the world.
The hotel: Les Airelles
The vibe: Like a decadent old country house, this place oozes the sort of sumptuous old-world charm that appeals to the Russian and Arab clientele that jet in during the winter months. Think acres of draped red velvet, baroque furnishings, lead crystal and ornate decorative touches.
Suite talking: There are 37 rooms, 14 suites and one private apartment, all boasting beautiful old wood panelling, antique furnishings and bespoke carpets, not to mention south-facing mountain views and Jacuzzi bathrooms.
Wine and dine: Yes, there's the main restaurant, the terrace with its breathtaking lunchtime buffet, and the Coin Savoyard for some of the poshest fondue you'll ever consume, but the big draw for foodies is the 27-cover, dinner-only, Pierre Gagnaire restaurant. Expect modern poetry on Hermès plates.
Après ski: Don't worry if you're not a typical ski-bore, there's plenty of other entertainment to keep you amused. You could start off lounging in the spa, complete with its own waterfall, indoor and outdoor Jacuzzis and a snow cave. Or if you're feeling a little more adventurous, there's the 25m private ice rink, resurfaced every day.
High points: You don't have to lift a finger-literally. The ski valets are on hand to deliver and collect your skis at the beginning and end of every day. Yes, of course you can ski to the door, but you wouldn't want to actually have to carry the things, would you? As for all the other pressing problems in life, don't worry, someone else will deal with it. The general manager confides that in busy weeks she spends hours on the phone to the local airport trying to negotiate landing slots for private jets.
In low season, a double room costs from €900 (£695) a night, based on two people sharing on a half-board basis.
www.airelles.fr

Verbier Switzerland

Why: Unlike St Moritz, which has a reputation as the ski resort for non-skiers, visitors to Verbier like to ski as hard as they party. Once a bit of a Sloane hangout, it's had a renaissance in recent years, with a host of new, hip hangouts drawing a moneyed mix of Brit bankers, fur-clad Russians and Euro glamsters.
The hotel: The Lodge
The vibe: Opened last year after a £3.5m renovation (it was just an average three-star hotel before), the Lodge is part of Virgin's Limited Edition: a collection of the sort of places where Sir Richard Branson would actually stay himself, but available, at a price, to mere mortals. It's chic, modern and slick, reminiscent of a boutique city hotel; but in winter you hire the whole chalet for yourself and your party.
Suite talking: All the rooms are individually decorated in a cosy but design-conscious fashion. Some boast huge central fireplaces, or bathrooms with giant black resin tubs big enough to swim in and Philippe Starck cube loos.
Wine and dine: What you eat is pretty much up to you—the hotel serves a mix of Swiss and international cuisine and whether you want a themed night, a macrobiotic menu or a multi-course gourmet extravaganza, the chef will do your bidding. Wash it all down with a cocktail from the bar, or a glass of house champagne.
Après ski: Just because this place only sleeps 18, doesn't mean you get short-changed on the après-ski extras. Indoor pool, Jacuzzis inside and out, a steam room, gym and spa are all on offer; then there's the mini ice rink, the pool table, plus a 50in plasma screen complete with DVD library and Nintendo Wii.
High points: This is probably the most expensive chalet in the world, but as anyone who's ever stayed at one of Virgin's Limited Edition properties will know, Sir Richard is not a man who does things by halves. Whether you want the kids taken off your hands, a table at the most sought-after mountain restaurant in town, or simply a ski guide to escort you around the hidden gems of the mountainside, one of the army of staff will jump to it.
Exclusive use of the Lodge, which sleeps 18 adults, costs from £42,300 a week this winter. This includes breakfast, afternoon tea and dinner, champagne and other drinks, and a 24-hour driver service within Verbier.
www.virginlimitededition.com